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“Superb Steaks and Service”

By Providence Cicero

“A tuxedoed maitre D’ is a rare sight in restaurants these days, but you’ll still find one at The Metropolitan Grill, carving chateaubriand and flambéing desserts tableside.”

It’s been 15 years since I last reviewed Consolidated Restaurants’ venerable downtown steakhouse. But when I stepped into The Met recently, it could have been 2000 again, or 1983, the year The Met opened, or even 1903, when the building at the corner of Second and Marion was built. Replete with mahogany and brass, The Met recalls posh men’s clubs of bygone days. Stately columns support a 20-foot ceiling rimmed with crown molding. Richly patterned carpeting runs along the aisles between secluded booths and tables. Subdued lighting mimics a gaslight glow.

Tugging you back to the present is the “wall of fame” crowded with decades of celebrity photos: There’s Russell Wilson beaming behind the gracious hostess…”

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